Exploring Ethiopia
Atypical Africa
Architectural treasures, desolated highlands, and the best coffee in the world: Ethiopia is a dream destination for travelers who like to combine culture and adventure. No wonder that the country is rapidly becoming the next hype in travel.
For people who travel to escape, Ethiopia is the place to be. Here, you swap the daily hustle for peace, the rain for sunshine, and the rut for continuous amazement. This is my conclusion after a ten-day trip to the north. It’s the most popular and beautiful region of the country, as I am told by some excited locals upon my arrival.
It definitely is beautiful; the popularity appears to be not too bad in practice. Even in the most amazing places, Ethiopia has not become a victim of mass tourism yet. Yet, because unfortunately, this type of country is at the verge of extinction.
I begin my journey in the busy capital: Addis Ababa, a melting pot of nationalities and cultures. The streets are packed with ultra-modern offices, impressive skyscrapers, and fancy hotels. The local youth migrate to this city, looking for a job or a future. As a tourist, you come here to catch your breath and to get acquainted with the delicious Ethiopian cuisine.
In the National Museum you can indulge yourself in a crash course on ‘Ethiopian history for beginners’. I am tempted into taking a guided tour, after which I retire to my luxurious room at the brand-new Skylight Hotel for a shower and a nap – much needed after the night flight.
Fifty Shades of Blue
Without delay, I hop on another plane that same day to Bahir Dar, the perfect base for water enthusiasts and rest seekers. I’m staying at the Kiruftu Resort and Spa, a beautiful hotel at the foot of the gigantic Lake Tana. From my balcony I have an amazing view of the endless surface of water, which seems to dissolve into the light blue horizon. ‘No wonder they used to think that the earth was flat’, my mind tells me, while I enjoy my homemade cocktail.
Lake Tana is the largest lake of Ethiopia and its surface covers about one tenth the size of Belgium. It is dotted with small islands on which monks built monasteries and churches en masse in the 14th century. How they managed to do so, remains a mystery to me. It is, however, impressive: you cannot claim they were lazy.
The monasteries are built for and by men. As a woman you cannot set foot inside. A boat ride of about one hour brings me to a church that I may actually enter. On my way there I enjoy the wonderful sunshine, the refreshing breeze, and the swell of the waves that is almost meditative.
I aim my gaze at the horizon, where – apart from a couple of ffishermen and pelicans – nothing or nobody passes by. It doesn’t take long for me to feel the calmness of the environment transform into peace in my mind. This is the perfect cure for stress and overstimulation.
Coffee Ceremony
The island itself is tiny and heavily vegetated: stunning, but I can hardly imagine people living here. Nevertheless, I am cheerfully greeted by some islanders, who carry me along to a market. Apart from scarves, colorful paintings, and Christian crucifixes, they also sell coffee, made of hyper-local coffee beans.
‘Do you want to participate in a coffee ceremony?’, the salesman asks me with an utterly sweet smile. Refusal is impossible in such an idyllic setting, so I meekly settle down on the colorful carpet. According to the guide, the black gold has an important social purpose in Ethiopia. ‘Everyone gathers in the same place to chat. Coffee ceremonies are the time and place to discuss important events or gossip.’ The contrast with our western way of consuming coffee couldn’t be bigger: hasty, on the road, and often with our gaze fixated on our smartphones. Could it be that we, in our rush to develop ourselves at top speed, have lost something? I almost become nostalgic while staring into my white porcelain cup.
The church visit is equally surprising. Contrary to the churches I know, this one has a round shape. Colorful scenes from the Bible are painted on the walls, in the center a mysterious relic is preserved. Only a handful of high-level priests know what it looks like exactly. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to enter the room as an ordinary visitor. Usually, my lack of religious background doesn’t bother me, but right now I’m pretty bummed. As a human being, you’re always longing for that which is out of reach.
“Could it be that we, in our rush to develop ourselves at top speed, have lost something?”
Wonderful Water Spectacle
The next day a guide and his 4×4 take me to the Blue Nile Falls, arguably the Niagara Falls of Ethiopia, and the most important attraction in the region. It’s not hard to see why: the access road is an adventurous rock path that takes you past the various landscapes. Along the way I encounter countless locals with cows, children, or merchandise.
We pass by the idyllic bridges and extensive fields, and often need to cross the Nile. The latter is in itself reason to come here, and we haven’t even reached the waterfall yet. I am beyond lucky with the conditions on the day of my visit. It is dry season, but thanks to the heavy rainfall of the day before, I am blessed with a true water spectacle that I can admire all by myself. At least if I don’t take into account the grazing goats in front of the waterfall.
“Everything is so delicious that I am at a loss for words.”
Injera for Lunch
The next stop is Gondar, a medium-sized city at the foot of the Simien Mountains. Up until 1855, this place was the capital, which is still noticeable today. A healthy bustle is omnipresent, and you can feel the history as you walk around. I decide to visit Fasil Ghebbi, a number of castles that have made UNESCO’s World Heritage list.
On our tour we are accompanied by a guide, which I can only recommend: the trivia that he tells us about the castle, gives the place a new dimension. In the animal cages, for example, real lions were kept until 1991. Today, holding an endangered species captive in a cage of 50 square meters is hard to imagine.
I process my visit during a delicious lunch at The Four Sisters. It is a traditional restaurant that combines the best of the Ethiopian cuisine on your plate. You compose your own menu based on the available buffet, but it’s almost impossible to make a wrong choice here.
The Sublime Simiens
From Gondar it only takes you about two hours to reach the Simien Mountains, an enormous mountain area which is also listed as a UNESCO World Heritage. “Welcome to our own our own Grand Canyon”, the guide smiles. In terms of view, the park does have a lot in common with its American counterpart, but it’s less busy and far more exciting here. If you’re lucky, you might spot one of the four hundred last Ethiopian wolves, but you’re sure to encounter a whole herd of gelada monkeys.
I’m staying the night at the almost magical LimaLimo Lodge: an insanely beautiful eco hotel right in the center of the park. My minimalistic wooden room has giant windows that overlook the mountains. The only thing I see is nature, the only thing I hear are animal sounds. The hotel is a great starting point for various hikes, although it’s equally enjoyable to just relax on the terrace. Thanks to the unique view, the great wine, and the overwhelming quietness, it’s not hard to do so.
After this refreshing day of rest, I make my way deeper into the park. The goal? Meeting the gelada monkeys, the ibex, and the Ethiopian wolf. Not much later, the mission appears to be much easier than expected: ‘sshhhttt, there they are’, the guide points out after barely ten minutes of walking.
I follow his finger and notice a group of about 70 monkeys grazing diligently. Carefully, I sneak closer, but the animals are more interested in the grass than in my presence. They have this kind of unshakable focus of which you become instantly jealous as a human. The females have a striking heart-shaped red spot on their chest. ‘When they want to mate, the heart becomes a little brighter’, the guide explains. These are the type of facts that warm the heart, although the environment might have something to do with that too.
I continue towards the top of the mountain, about 4.550 meters high, by jeep. Once again, it’s just me and my guide here. In front of me, an ibex hops determinedly towards his peers.
Next to me, a monkey is peacefully enjoying the sun below a palm tree. ‘I have found one of the last undiscovered places on earth’, I tell myself gratefully while I stare at the horizon. Some things are so big that they cannot be translated into words. This view is one of them.
Churches and Culture
My final stop is Lalibela, a city that is mostly known for its unique rock churches. I visit all twelve of them over the course of two short days, but this is definitely not a must. After all, Lalibela has a lot of other things to offer as well. The legendary restaurant, Ben Abeba, for example, is worth a visit simply because of its architecture and spectacular sunset.
And I haven’t even mentioned the amazing, honeyed wine that they serve in one of the most infamous dance bars in the city. I decide to go there on my last evening. After two glasses I am tipsy enough to engage in a dance battle with a couple of local professional dancers. My dance moves are met with jeers, but the freeing euphoria that I feel while doing so perfectly summarizes this trip.
Ethiopia is in no way comparable to other African destinations. It’s a country full of amazement and where nothing is guaranteed: an experience to remember.
“A country full of amazement and where nothing is guaranteed”
Practical
Ethiopia is easy to visit with a daily, direct flight departing from virtually every European capital to Addis Ababa. Ethiopian Airlines is the African airline of choice and connects almost every African country via Ethiopia with the rest of the world. Therefore, you can easily combine any other African destination on your wish list with a stopover in Ethiopia. Even inland Ethiopian Airlines offers easy connections to all the highlights of the country. And in every remote corner, we have the perfect guide waiting for you!
Best Time to Travel
The dry season in Ethiopia covers the entire European spring and winter. From September until April, the country is at its most beautiful. Especially in early fall season, shortly after the rain, Ethiopia is gorgeously green!
Booking Your Trip
Thanks to the easy connections of Ethiopian Airlines, Atelier Africa Safaris has travelled through the different regions of Ethiopia multiple times.
We take pride in the fact that our trips through Ethiopia are always unique and far from the crowds!
Contact us to get booking today!